turning thirty in marrakech: part II

In the early stages of planning our trip to Marrakech, I wanted to take a few days outside of the city to explore the Atlas Mountains, or take the journey to the Sahara to ride camels (and look as fab as Carrie Bradshaw, am I right ladies?!), and even spend a few hours getting a massage and hammam … but as I researched the souks, market squares, and boutiques that Marrakech has to offer we scrapped any idea of leaving the city or taking a spa day because I wanted all the shopping hours I could get.  In hindsight,  I wish we took a half day to have the experience of a hammam, by the end of day three we felt we had more than covered the souks and even the shops in the new city.

Our riad was a short 10 minute walk to the main square Jemma el-Fnaa but far enough that it was quiet break from the madness.

The souks of Marrakech, open every day 9am – 9pm are the heart, lungs, and every other necessary organ of the city.  We were prepared to get hassled, prepared to barter, and prepared to get lost in the labyrinth of roads and alleyways.

The souks shoot off the Jemma el-Fnaa like tangled webs.   Stall after stall is packed so full that even after strolling the streets slowly multiple times over your eyes and brain can only process a fraction of the goods.  Jewelry, antiques, leather products of all kinds, kaftans, cacti silk pashminas, textiles, rugs, pottery, hand carved lanterns, essential oils, spices, etc.  Those are just the items that caught my eye most frequently.

Some areas of the souks seem to have no rhyme or reason.  There will be a leather goods seller next to a man carving intricate cedar doors next to someone selling tajines and tchotchkes next to an antique Moroccan jewelry shop with the issues of Vogue posted on the walls in which they were featured.  Then there are segments of the souks specializing in one specific commodity whether it is lighting, spices, wool, etc.

First on the list was to visit a few rug shops that came highly recommended from the internets.   Though you could find rug shops large and small throughout the medina, our first stop was Bazaar Jouti in the section of Souk des Tapis.  A two story shop, we were welcomed and taken up to the second floor and asked what type of rug we had in mind.  I could barely focus as I was spinning around to examine the floor to ceiling stacks.  Mohammed at Bazar Jouti spoke English, asked where we were visiting from, and explained that he ships should we not want to travel with our purchases.  We knew we wanted a large Beni Ourain style rug.  We came knowledgeable on fair prices but also knew that there is always room for bartering.  We sat for almost an hour as the shop assistants rolled out rug after rug.  Mohammed told us stories about the tribes of which the rugs came - nomadic Berber tribes from the Atlas mountains, and would explain special designs and markings.  Though I had my heart set on two specific rugs, this was our first stop so we asked Mohammed to set them aside and said we would be back. (We did not go back but I am still thinking about those two rugs and may be calling up my man Mohammed.)

The spice market square and apothecary / herbalist shops surrounding the spice market seemed to be a favorite for all visitors.  We had a great lunch (free WiFi!) at Café des épices, overlooking the busy square. We picked up some spices - sweet curry and ras el hanout which is a blend of 35 different spices (so potent that our pantry smells like the spice market).  I also couldn't resist the amber musk solid perfumes and argan oil.  The owners of the various spice shops keep you there by opening jar after jar for you to smell, rubbing scents and essential oils on your hands, or showing you the powders used to die textile wool.  The men are knowledgeable and at the same time so endearing that you can’t help but walk away with something to take home.

After the lunch it was round two of rug shopping.  We found a rug man with a shop tucked back in an old riad that looked promising.  We were graciously welcomed, asked to take a seat, and offered mint tea while they started to unfold rugs.  Just like Bazaar Juti, it was really difficult to narrow down the amount of rugs we saw to just a handful that we loved.  We ultimately made a purchase from the rug man.  Selecting just one, I look back now thinking we were crazy not to take him up on his deal if we bought several. 

A nice break from the hectic souks are the boutiques outside the Median walls.  Several shops are run by French expats.  Edited versions of what you find in the souks, boutiques like Akkal, Moor, and 33 rue Majorelle are upmarket and well curated. 

If you ever find yourself in this part of the world, I highly recommend a visit to Marrakech (could easily tack it on to a trip to southern Spain or France).  And please let me know if you do! I can unload hours of unsolicited advice and secrets of the souks.  

turning thirty in marrakech: part I

I've never had such a hard time sifting through images from a trip as I have with our Marrakech photos.   A sensory overload x 1000 – I am anxious about not doing the city justice.  It was such a mad, magical, and romantic (and I never use that word) four days.  The sights, the sounds, the call to prayer that rings out over the city five times a day.   Marrakech is not for everyone, chaotic and dusty, but it has an aura and energy to it that is hard to explain.  It was certainly unlike any travel experience we have ever had.

I will cover the souks (markets) in part II but I will start out by saying we did a fair amount of reading and planning leading up to this trip, more than we usually do for a long weekend getaway.  I think it was a blend of several things:  me wanting to take full advantage of the best shopping that Marrakech has to offer  (read: rugs and all things home décor), compiling a list of must see things, and gaining awareness of cultural  do’s and don’ts of the predominantly Muslim North African city.

After a three hour London Stansted >>> Marrakech-Menara EasyJet flight, we exited the aircraft to the sun beaming down on our shoulders.  This was the moment when we realized we are truly accustomed to English weather.  When you go weeks without sunshine, a warm sun and blue skies puts you in “aaaaaaah” holiday mode instantly.

The Riad we stayed in arranged airport pick-up for us which avoided us getting scammed by the airport taxi’s.  Driving like a New York City cab driver, he was speeding, dodging cars, motos, donkey buggies, and pedestrians left and right and dropped us in a busy square in the heart of the Medina (the old, historic district of the city) where someone from the Riad was waiting to escort us down narrow pedestrian streets.  At Riad al loune we were greeted with mint tea, nuts, fresh dates, and Moroccan sweets at a table by the pool.  Instrumental music playing and incense burning, the atmosphere immediately puts you in a relaxed trance.   Excellent breakfasts each morning at the Riad, as well as one dinner by candle light (this city - everything by candle light at night).

On the morning of our second day we ventured over to Ben Youseff Madrasa.  Now a historic site, it was once an Islamic college founded in the 16^th century and one of the largest theological colleges in North Africa.  The 130 rooms surrounding the courtyard were used as dormitories for some 900 students from the countryside.  We spent most of our visit there in the peaceful courtyard admiring the elaborately carved cedar, marble, and stucco and along with everyone else, trying to get the perfect photo without any tourists in it (though you’ll see below, I didn't mind being the subject).

Another spectacular site we visited was Jardin Majorelle: a walled, 12-acre botanical garden and artist’s landscape garden open to the public since 1947 and owned by Yves Saint-Laurent since 1980.  There is a predominant memorial for Saint-Laurent in the garden and his ashes were scattered there.   We brought along fresh oranges, dates, and nuts for a picnic and then roamed the paths through palm trees, pools, and cacti.  The gardens are famous for the bright orange, yellow, and marjorelle blue color palate. 

As for eats while in Marrakech, we covered the $ to $$$ spectrum.  The first night we had our first traditional tajine meal.  The cone shaped earthenware filled with meats or veg is placed over open flame and slow cooked – foolproof, tender, fall off the bone meat. (We ordered lamb with dates and sesame).   A dining highlight was a preset 7 course experience at Le Tobsil.  The old former Riad with just ten tables was filled with deep red Moroccan rugs and lit entirely by candles (even the hallways and restrooms).  Live music played as we sipped wine and course after course came out.  I don’t think I have ever enjoyed the scattered rose pedal look but they strangely played into the mood.  After Le Tobsil, we took a taxi to outside the Medina walls where the new city has modern lounges and hotels.  Great places to get drinks, people watch, and smoke sheesha.

On the last night we ventured to the main square Jemma el-Fnaa, where hundreds of food tents are set up at night.   It was madness.  Tourists and locals flock to the massive square filled with drum circles, snake charmers, henna artists, storytelling, and vendors selling dried fruits, nuts, and fresh squeezed orange juice for 4 dirhams (40 cents).  As we walked the food stalls we are hassled by each one with a rep begging you to sit at their tent.  “Hey grannies, EAT HERE” to two sweet old ladies.  “Hey you, you look hungry!”  to a group of plumpish foreigners.  Anything to get your eye contact, pause, and laughs.  As we were hassled we apologetically told each one we already ate (lies) and they would take my hand and have me promise to return the next night.  We decided on lucky number 32. 

As for lunches we kept it light with fresh fruit + veg juices and cold roasted vegetables at cafes with sun filled rooftops and free WiFi.  What would we do without the free WiFi.