Monday, August 29, 2016

turning thirty two in tuscany

In this chapter in my life, it is never lost on me that there is what seems like an endless list of spectacular locations just a few hours away via flight.

Rosalin, my friend since kindergarten, who lives in Germany planned a long weekend away in Tuscany.  It happened to fall on my thirty second birthday, I couldn't say no.

We flew into Pisa and rented a car.  We rented a small villa through Airbnb in the Chianti region.  I really wanted to taste Brunello di Montalcino wines in Montalcino, southern part of Tuscany.  But we wanted to keep our journeys on the shorter side since we were heading back north on our last day to spend the day in Florence. We based ourselves in Chianti, but you can't go wrong when choosing places to stay / wine taste in the region.

My previous trip to Tuscany was years ago with Marco and his parents.  It was summer time and full of sunflowers in bloom, Diane Lane "Under the Tuscan Sun" style.  We stayed for a longer period of time, so I saw many of the small villages and larger towns.

This trip, despite  being January (winter birthdays are not so great) I was so excited to have a weekend away with the girls and explore Tuscany during the tourist off season.  

We arrived to what is still one of my favorite Airbnb rentals to date and cracked open some reds to enjoy on the terrace.  Rosalin, our expert entertainer, prepared a charcuterie and cheese board.  I flipped through the welcome binder that our host provided to pick a spot for dinner.  Of course I chose the "George Clooney ate here." Done.  Rosalin, Alex, and Karlijn were happy to indulge me.

Rosalin arranged a van and driver to chauffeur us around on our wine tasting day.  Our driver arranged our tastings at some less commercial wineries.  We enjoyed lunch and small bites at the tastings as well.  The amazing pastas and cheeses carried us through a marathon day of tastings.  We visited San Gimignano and other small villages that day as well.

Photos below, our villa (attached to the owners flat) The views!
























Our second tasting was at Accademia del Buon Gusto, with owner / artist / wine expert Stefano Salvadori.  A larger than life character we will never forget.  His little shop, tasting room, and school are in the town Panzano in Chianti.  (Also in Panzano is the world famous butcher and restaurant, Antica Macelleria Cecchini, made more famous by Anthony Bourdain.)







Sunny morning, cloudy headed in the villa.  We had a slow breakfast, gathered our things, and headed off to Florence.  We hit all the major sites, enjoyed cocktails al fresco, and I bought myself some new Ray Bans.  We ended our trip with one last amazing meal - fresh pasta and excellent (Neapolitan style!) pizza.  Thanks to my lovely husband for holding down the fort in England so I could enjoy a weekend away.



















Wednesday, August 10, 2016

norwegian fjords

We set aside an entire day to explore the fjords.  If we knew the weather was going to be so perfect while we were there, we would have loved to plan a longer trip and camp, but instead we chose to do the scenic Flåmsbana train journey and then a ferry tour through Sognefjord.

We headed out of our flat around around 6:00 am to walk to the Bergen train station, backpack and baby in tow.  As we settled in on a bench in the train station, I spotted and cafe and Marco reluctantly agreed to go grab us some lattes.  "Rebecca, they are going to be like $10 apiece."  "Just go check please, I said" knowing full well he wasn't going to say no to a sleep deprived Mama.  He walked back with a grin on his face and two cups in hand.  They were only a fiver.

We boarded the train with all the backpackers fashioned in the latest gear and boots.  I was envious.  It would have been cool to be setting off on a multiple day fjords adventure, but I looked down at my sweet and fussy eight month old and was just as happy to be setting out on the full day we had planned - despite being up all night with her.

Our journey started with a train journey from Bergen, through the countryside to Myrdal.  In Myrdal we changed trains.  We boarded what looked like a Wes Anderson film set.  The Flåmsbana, an old fashioned yet mint looking train has a British racing green exterior. "One of the World's most beautiful train journeys" was painted down the side.  The interior was wood paneled with brass fixtures and huge windows.

The train took us through mountains and small towns, stopping at waterfalls, to the base of Sognefjord - the village of Flåm.

Flåm is the setting off point for many different fjord excursions. Ferries, speedboats, kayaks, cruise liners.  We had a few beers at the brewery and then enjoyed a picnic.  I decided to focus on the unreal natural surroundings and ignore my urge to hit the shops to purchase matching Norwegian sweaters for the family.

We boarded the ferry and took a spot on the sunny side of the deck.  We cracked some of our grocery bought Beavertown neck oil beers and basked in the sun.  Simone finally passed out on me and slowly but surely everyone around mestarted moving to explore different vantage points from the ferry.  Marco periodically checked back with me, camera in hand, "Babe! The views on the other side are insane!"  I felt a bit cheated having to stay put but was happy to enjoy my one-side-of-the-boat views as long as the rascal was finally sleeping. (We were vindicated on our journey home that day when I discovered that her first, razor sharp, tooth cut through.)

We were able to enjoy the views as a family once Simone awoke from her slumber.  The Sognefjord ferry tour was about 3 hours.  Again, while we were envious of the kayakers and hikers we saw along the way, I think the ferry was more our speed at that time.

We debarked in Gudvangen and enjoyed the viking boats for a few before boarding a bus that was about to take us on a death defying road journey through steep mountains full of cliffs and switchbacks.  Marco did not mention nor prepare me for such a ride. Passed out teething baby on my lap, I tried to laugh it off as I shot him, "Are you kidding me with this?" glares.

A long day, but well worth it for the epic scenery.  I try to do it justice with the photos below. Norway is an incredible part of the world.