Tuesday, March 14, 2017

bordeaux and saint-émilion

During the Euro Cup 2016, Marco and I got away for a long weekend to Bordeaux with some friends.

Marco had a ticket to a match - I went along for the chateau staying, wine consuming, sleeping in, and all around childless general fun.

Marco and I arrived earlier than some of the group whom we were meeting in the city, so we had time to enjoy a nice lunch and catch an Italy vs. Sweden match at one of the more popular Euro Cup viewing bars - L' APOLLO - which randomly made delicious caipirinha cocktails, of all things.  Post match we weathered a summer rain storm and headed over to an Irish pub where it was so packed with Irishmen, they were pouring out into the streets.  As they were so delightfully drunk - dozens of them serenaded me as I walked in.  (Not many ladies make a holiday of the Euro Cup -- mostly a lads trip.)

Later in the day we managed to meet up with the rest of the group and head out the the chateau that we had rented.  Some of us in the group were new to each other, but it was a fun vibe.  And as I dub every group holiday with a lot of adults - this was THE REAL WORLD BORDEAUX.

The next day the rest of the group headed to the Ireland vs. Belgium match after we all grabbed lunch and drinks in town.  I was happy to do some shopping, take photographs of fans in the streets, and then head back to L'APOLLO to watch the matches of the day.  It was a beautiful sunny day where I proceeded to drink a many caipirinhas and reapply my red lipstick too many times.  It is always so bitter sweet to holiday somewhere warm and sunny - it makes me realize how seldom we get those days in England ...

The next day was spent lazily around the chateau - playing bocce, reading, refilling our mimosa glasses, playing competitive games of table tennis, enjoying lunch together, and then an excellent wine tasting course put on by one of the group's own, Rachel who is a sommelier.  (What a talent to bring to the group, btw.)  Focusing on Bordeaux wines, it was such an informative and intimate experience, where it might or might not have ended with some of us in the vineyards of our chateau eating the soil so we could get a TRUE SENSE of the vines.

We ended the trip with visit to the quaint town Saint-Émilion.  What a beautiful and memorable town overlooking vineyards as far as the eye can see.  But what may be more memorable is our George Constanza type parking altercation we got into with a local when he tried to pull into our parking spot. Nope, will never forget it.  I clenched my teeth in awkwardness as the other three in the car with me held their own in french.  

 Santé, Bordeaux




































Wednesday, January 11, 2017

copenhagen



Copenhagen! So we arranged to meet Marco's cousin, Luciana, who lives in Naples, Italy, in the cooler than cool Danish city last spring.  We spent a long weekend discovering the cities restaurants, coffee bars, design shops, markets, and museums.  

Looking back at these photos, Simone was at such a perfect stroller age.  She was happy to cruise around the city all day everyday, asleep or awake -- which made her fit right in with the local babies.  I'll get to that in a bit.

Marco spent his early childhood growing up in Italy, where Luciana was more like a big sister to him than a cousin because they spent so much time together.  (I love hearing little rascal Marco stories from her just as much as she loves telling them.)  They have such a special bond, it is always great to see them together.  

After we got settled in at our Airbnb, we set off to decide on a dinner spot from our long long list of restaurant recommendations. We had a great dinner at Manfreds.  

Post dinner, we hit two Mikkeller bars - Koelschip and Mikkeller and Friends.  Marco cleverly proceeded for the rest of the trip to weave in a visit to almost every Mikkeller bar in the city -- which means we had to hit one every few hours if we were going to fit them all in.

The next day we strolled the parks along the canals until our lunch reservations at Radio

We decided to leave the tasting menu restaurant experiences to the day time (read: a better behaved toddler).  And thankfully, lunch fell right at Simone's nap time.  As I carefully strolled our passed out Simone into the restaurant, the maître d' gestured me right back outside -- and pointed to the little line of other sleeping babies in their prams where their parents where just on the opposite side of the glass enjoying a blissfully quiet and leisurely lunch.  (!!!!) I had read about this Scandinavian practice and I was giddy to try it out.  They seated us on the other side of the glass from Simone so we could see if she woke.  We too, proceeded to enjoy a leisurely lunch where I wasn't wrangling silverware from a toddler and could hold an adult conversation without interruption.  

The whole leaving babies sleeping outside concept amazed me the duration of our stay -- their duvets piled high, bundled up, all snugly in their prams while mom or dad sat just inside the cafe or coffee shop chatting with a friend or reading the paper while keeping a watchful eye.  Nothing better than a crisp, fresh air nap.  

Marco and I were lucky that Luciana is passionate about design -- we did not feel guilty about hitting all of the shops and concept stores on our list.  The HAY flagship store, Normann Copenhagen, The Denmark Design Museum, the beautiful Illum department store.

We ate, drank, and people watched our way through that city.  I couldn't get enough of the stylish girls in their skirts/tights/Nike Air-max/cocoon wool coat combos.  Cruising down the street on their bicycles.   All in black, white, gray, navy, or stripes -- with a little red or mustard mixed in.  I was with my wardrobe palette people! 

Some other highlights from the long weekend: 

We spent one afternoon at a warehouse food truck festival - Copenhagen Street Food - where hundreds of people were lounged out at picnic tables along the river with friends and family eating off paper plates and drinking cans of beer.     

One night we got old old fashioned at Tivoli Gardens - a theme park plopped in the middle of the city. 

We strolled the no-photos-allowed Freetown Christiania which was verrrrrry interesting. 

We trekked to Warpigs, another Mikkeller bar, for their one year anniversary street party.  Great street food, Texas style BBQ, and epic beer.  

Simone was a gem.  It was so so fun to spend time time with Luciana.