turning thirty in marrakech: part I

I've never had such a hard time sifting through images from a trip as I have with our Marrakech photos.   A sensory overload x 1000 – I am anxious about not doing the city justice.  It was such a mad, magical, and romantic (and I never use that word) four days.  The sights, the sounds, the call to prayer that rings out over the city five times a day.   Marrakech is not for everyone, chaotic and dusty, but it has an aura and energy to it that is hard to explain.  It was certainly unlike any travel experience we have ever had.

I will cover the souks (markets) in part II but I will start out by saying we did a fair amount of reading and planning leading up to this trip, more than we usually do for a long weekend getaway.  I think it was a blend of several things:  me wanting to take full advantage of the best shopping that Marrakech has to offer  (read: rugs and all things home décor), compiling a list of must see things, and gaining awareness of cultural  do’s and don’ts of the predominantly Muslim North African city.

After a three hour London Stansted >>> Marrakech-Menara EasyJet flight, we exited the aircraft to the sun beaming down on our shoulders.  This was the moment when we realized we are truly accustomed to English weather.  When you go weeks without sunshine, a warm sun and blue skies puts you in “aaaaaaah” holiday mode instantly.

The Riad we stayed in arranged airport pick-up for us which avoided us getting scammed by the airport taxi’s.  Driving like a New York City cab driver, he was speeding, dodging cars, motos, donkey buggies, and pedestrians left and right and dropped us in a busy square in the heart of the Medina (the old, historic district of the city) where someone from the Riad was waiting to escort us down narrow pedestrian streets.  At Riad al loune we were greeted with mint tea, nuts, fresh dates, and Moroccan sweets at a table by the pool.  Instrumental music playing and incense burning, the atmosphere immediately puts you in a relaxed trance.   Excellent breakfasts each morning at the Riad, as well as one dinner by candle light (this city - everything by candle light at night).

On the morning of our second day we ventured over to Ben Youseff Madrasa.  Now a historic site, it was once an Islamic college founded in the 16^th century and one of the largest theological colleges in North Africa.  The 130 rooms surrounding the courtyard were used as dormitories for some 900 students from the countryside.  We spent most of our visit there in the peaceful courtyard admiring the elaborately carved cedar, marble, and stucco and along with everyone else, trying to get the perfect photo without any tourists in it (though you’ll see below, I didn't mind being the subject).

Another spectacular site we visited was Jardin Majorelle: a walled, 12-acre botanical garden and artist’s landscape garden open to the public since 1947 and owned by Yves Saint-Laurent since 1980.  There is a predominant memorial for Saint-Laurent in the garden and his ashes were scattered there.   We brought along fresh oranges, dates, and nuts for a picnic and then roamed the paths through palm trees, pools, and cacti.  The gardens are famous for the bright orange, yellow, and marjorelle blue color palate. 

As for eats while in Marrakech, we covered the $ to $$$ spectrum.  The first night we had our first traditional tajine meal.  The cone shaped earthenware filled with meats or veg is placed over open flame and slow cooked – foolproof, tender, fall off the bone meat. (We ordered lamb with dates and sesame).   A dining highlight was a preset 7 course experience at Le Tobsil.  The old former Riad with just ten tables was filled with deep red Moroccan rugs and lit entirely by candles (even the hallways and restrooms).  Live music played as we sipped wine and course after course came out.  I don’t think I have ever enjoyed the scattered rose pedal look but they strangely played into the mood.  After Le Tobsil, we took a taxi to outside the Medina walls where the new city has modern lounges and hotels.  Great places to get drinks, people watch, and smoke sheesha.

On the last night we ventured to the main square Jemma el-Fnaa, where hundreds of food tents are set up at night.   It was madness.  Tourists and locals flock to the massive square filled with drum circles, snake charmers, henna artists, storytelling, and vendors selling dried fruits, nuts, and fresh squeezed orange juice for 4 dirhams (40 cents).  As we walked the food stalls we are hassled by each one with a rep begging you to sit at their tent.  “Hey grannies, EAT HERE” to two sweet old ladies.  “Hey you, you look hungry!”  to a group of plumpish foreigners.  Anything to get your eye contact, pause, and laughs.  As we were hassled we apologetically told each one we already ate (lies) and they would take my hand and have me promise to return the next night.  We decided on lucky number 32. 

As for lunches we kept it light with fresh fruit + veg juices and cold roasted vegetables at cafes with sun filled rooftops and free WiFi.  What would we do without the free WiFi.