turning thirty in marrakech: part II

In the early stages of planning our trip to Marrakech, I wanted to take a few days outside of the city to explore the Atlas Mountains, or take the journey to the Sahara to ride camels (and look as fab as Carrie Bradshaw, am I right ladies?!), and even spend a few hours getting a massage and hammam … but as I researched the souks, market squares, and boutiques that Marrakech has to offer we scrapped any idea of leaving the city or taking a spa day because I wanted all the shopping hours I could get.  In hindsight,  I wish we took a half day to have the experience of a hammam, by the end of day three we felt we had more than covered the souks and even the shops in the new city.

Our riad was a short 10 minute walk to the main square Jemma el-Fnaa but far enough that it was quiet break from the madness.

The souks of Marrakech, open every day 9am – 9pm are the heart, lungs, and every other necessary organ of the city.  We were prepared to get hassled, prepared to barter, and prepared to get lost in the labyrinth of roads and alleyways.

The souks shoot off the Jemma el-Fnaa like tangled webs.   Stall after stall is packed so full that even after strolling the streets slowly multiple times over your eyes and brain can only process a fraction of the goods.  Jewelry, antiques, leather products of all kinds, kaftans, cacti silk pashminas, textiles, rugs, pottery, hand carved lanterns, essential oils, spices, etc.  Those are just the items that caught my eye most frequently.

Some areas of the souks seem to have no rhyme or reason.  There will be a leather goods seller next to a man carving intricate cedar doors next to someone selling tajines and tchotchkes next to an antique Moroccan jewelry shop with the issues of Vogue posted on the walls in which they were featured.  Then there are segments of the souks specializing in one specific commodity whether it is lighting, spices, wool, etc.

First on the list was to visit a few rug shops that came highly recommended from the internets.   Though you could find rug shops large and small throughout the medina, our first stop was Bazaar Jouti in the section of Souk des Tapis.  A two story shop, we were welcomed and taken up to the second floor and asked what type of rug we had in mind.  I could barely focus as I was spinning around to examine the floor to ceiling stacks.  Mohammed at Bazar Jouti spoke English, asked where we were visiting from, and explained that he ships should we not want to travel with our purchases.  We knew we wanted a large Beni Ourain style rug.  We came knowledgeable on fair prices but also knew that there is always room for bartering.  We sat for almost an hour as the shop assistants rolled out rug after rug.  Mohammed told us stories about the tribes of which the rugs came - nomadic Berber tribes from the Atlas mountains, and would explain special designs and markings.  Though I had my heart set on two specific rugs, this was our first stop so we asked Mohammed to set them aside and said we would be back. (We did not go back but I am still thinking about those two rugs and may be calling up my man Mohammed.)

The spice market square and apothecary / herbalist shops surrounding the spice market seemed to be a favorite for all visitors.  We had a great lunch (free WiFi!) at Café des épices, overlooking the busy square. We picked up some spices - sweet curry and ras el hanout which is a blend of 35 different spices (so potent that our pantry smells like the spice market).  I also couldn't resist the amber musk solid perfumes and argan oil.  The owners of the various spice shops keep you there by opening jar after jar for you to smell, rubbing scents and essential oils on your hands, or showing you the powders used to die textile wool.  The men are knowledgeable and at the same time so endearing that you can’t help but walk away with something to take home.

After the lunch it was round two of rug shopping.  We found a rug man with a shop tucked back in an old riad that looked promising.  We were graciously welcomed, asked to take a seat, and offered mint tea while they started to unfold rugs.  Just like Bazaar Juti, it was really difficult to narrow down the amount of rugs we saw to just a handful that we loved.  We ultimately made a purchase from the rug man.  Selecting just one, I look back now thinking we were crazy not to take him up on his deal if we bought several. 

A nice break from the hectic souks are the boutiques outside the Median walls.  Several shops are run by French expats.  Edited versions of what you find in the souks, boutiques like Akkal, Moor, and 33 rue Majorelle are upmarket and well curated. 

If you ever find yourself in this part of the world, I highly recommend a visit to Marrakech (could easily tack it on to a trip to southern Spain or France).  And please let me know if you do! I can unload hours of unsolicited advice and secrets of the souks.